July 8. Sunny. I pass under the Chinatown gate a little after seven, heading down Saint-Laurent toward the water. This is one of a few routes I take most mornings, meandering through the Quartier des Spectacles some days, down along René-Lévesque others, but they tend to end the same way, at the river.
I couldn’t sleep, which is why I’ve been up since six thirty or so. The sun was barely up. Construction vehicles made their slow way down the cobblestones on Sainte-Catherine, and crews were taking down the stages from the jazz festival and the Francos, packing up the tents that covered the VIP areas, loading the barricades noisily onto a flatbed truck. On a festival night at nine, the whole city presses into that square and the stages look like they were always meant to be there. This morning they were planks and cable, and the people touching them were thinking about their shift, their coffee, the hour. The square was built to be watched. Nobody was watching it under this morning light, and it went about its other life.
There is something about being in a space at a moment when its occupation isn’t its principal concern. The streets get louder around this time. People hurry through the métro stations toward work or school. I was the only one wandering, and I was wandering because last night the framed picture on the wall beside my bed flew off the wall when I adjusted the curtains. I was tired. I opened them without much attention and the frame came down and broke. This happened in the same weeks I’d been telling people my dissertation is finished. I handed it in at the beginning of June. It’s out of my hands. It’s also waiting for a defence date, and a position I want to apply for needs that defence done by mid-August. I no longer know if that’s possible. Finished is a word I have been using the way the festivals use their stages. It holds the square together for the night. In the morning there are planks.
I keep thinking about the ball last week. If a stage can come down overnight because a festival ends, a community can be taken apart just as fast by a policy that decides who gets to stay. Some people I love from the scene here were forced back to Europe, largely because of what immigration policy in this province has become. They were hired to come back for a week, to give workshops, to be celebrated. The room was love and joy and it was exactly what I needed. What stays with me is the shape of it. A community looked at an absence that policy had made and decided it wouldn’t stand, at least for a short time. People coordinated resources and made calls and booked flights so that a thing that’d been taken apart could be put back together in front of everyone. I’ve watched this city dismantle a lot. I’d forgotten how deliberately it can also rebuild.
Ten years ago I moved here from Ottawa. Ten years before that I left home at fifteen, out of a childhood I’ll leave folded for now, except to say that leaving was how I survived it. Now I am 36, and the itch has been building for over a year, stretched across my body and my writing both, the same restlessness surfacing in what I make as much as in what I feel. For the past year I have been telling myself the story that the city is drawing something out of me and the drawing points toward departure. But I’ve started to notice the arithmetic. Every ten years or so my body announces that it is time to go, and every ten years I have believed the announcement was about the place. Leaving has always been my first answer, formed long before any of the questions I have since applied it to. It’s possible that safety lives in this city. It’s possible that Tiohtià:ke holds what I’ve been looking for, and that the itch is an old reflex arriving on time. If I leave, I want it to be because something specific needs to be better somewhere else. I want departure to be a decision I make with my whole attention, the opposite of how I opened the curtains.
So I keep going past the gate, down to the edge, where I have been taking my coffee most mornings. I sit in the shade with a book or my laptop and look out over Habitat 67, watch the river move in its slow waves against the docks, hear the hulls knock against them, the water carrying a mineral cold up off its surface even in July. See the Tower of the Port of Montréal on the far side. The river keeps its own schedule. It was moving before the festival infrastructure went up and it will be moving after, and it was moving before me, and my people crossed water I will never fully account for. This is where I go back to the ancestors, the ones the trade took, the ones the water carried and didn’t carry back. When I sit there long enough, the question of leaving gets quieter. The water makes the question wait, the way the square waits under morning light for whatever it’ll become next.
I don’t know what to do with all of this yet. I know there’s value in it. I know I’m not finished, and for once I’m saying that word carefully.









